Car model: Ford Transit Connect
Transit Connect is tibbe key up until 2013 and crossover year 2014 then new shape connects are HU101 but a different pick than used on older Fords.
Tip 2:
When i pick lock, before doing, always add some little oil in the lock.
After that, insert and take Lishi several time both side.
The tension applies is various on each wafer and on the tool.
My first lock is HU101 and it took me many hours before understand how tool work and tension applied.
Decoding, not important if lock is on Open or close position. You need turn slightly to read correct the grid level.
Tip 2:
there is only 1 x HU101 Decoder, theres different generations of it but only 1 pick not 2 different ones.
the very first gen 1 hu101 used different pick tips but still did the job fine
the next change was changing to snib lifters rather than pick tips
the next change was to lower the shoulder area to deal with some lock housings
the final change was a shoulder mod to allow picking of some ignitions that needed extra insertion and a tip mod.
all 3 will get most you will see, and older tool versions that dont just need a little tweak with a file .
on some transit models you will only feel 9 wafers , flip tool over and reinsert and you will feel all 10 .
i use light tension , but on some worn locks heavy tension is required , these are very easy to overlift you use too much tension and if lock is grimy.
if when you insert pick and apply tension you can feel all wafers but nothing binds then its likely the plug siezed , lube around the plug and work it with a cut key to break the corrosion seal stopping it turning .
these are not a hard lock to pick , its all in tension and technique , once you master this then these are a 1 to 2 min opening every time.
when decoding also bear in mind the key rules , no cut will be an further than 2 cuts away from the cut next door , position 10 is always a 2 cut on fords , some JLR dont follow the 2 cut in position 10 rule.
Question:
Done a 2010 Kuga and Fiesta took about 1 hour on each one. This Connect is super sensitive with minimum tension on tension arm and fingertip “tickle” on lifters you can feel it skipping through 2-3 positions on number 3. Upward picking is also harder than down as very hard to judge bounce on this Connect. All 10 positions are live anti clockwise and seem picked but..........
Have a Lishi 3 in 1 here and ordered a Mr.Li 2 in 1 this morning so will use whatever one I’m more comfortable with and use other as a back up.
Have an ignition and door lock ordered to practice with. A lot of ones I talked to over here struggle with this lock taking around 45 mins to pick.
Decode is another story was talking to an old hand I know from outside Liverpool he says he picks lock to locked takes code then open and ignition to compare decode.
A lot of contradictions on sequence as well. Some say use a certain sequence and pick locked others say use another sequence and pick open. Some say do 4 bottom first etc etc etc 🤯🤯
Your the man who done a lot of development on these picks what would you recommend?
If picked locked also bought a plug spinner to flick lock to open but haven’t the first clue how to spike lock, remove Lishi and insert plug spinner.
Any tips on lock spiking?
Tips for sharing (Thanks to @ rapidlocksmiths from DK forum):
Sequences are only a guide dependent on which locations will bind first determined by the plugs construction , it depends which way you are picking as to which positions will bind first , the sequence for picking in one direction will differ when you pick in opposite direction , as tentioning lock in opposite direction therefore wafers bind in opposite sequence. also differs on left and right hand drive vehicles due to lock placement .
the sequence method that the lock design prefers if sequence picking is ;
clockwise : positions 1 , 5 , 9 , 4 and 8 in their binding order first ( you sometimes feel plug turn a fraction once all set ) then once these are set you pick positions 2 , 3 , 6 , 7 and 10 in their binding order to open
anticlockwise is reverse of this picking 2367 and 10 first in their binding order , then pick positions 1 , 5 , 9 , 4 and 8 in their binding order to open .
the reasons for this become obvious when you strip a lock and take note of the wafer and spring positions and how in each direction the interact and bind on the plug wall , its all to do with spring position and wafer configuration.
however , this being said , i ignore sequences , and check all positions in turn picking the binding positions as i go , works far quicker for me , i mix between light and medium tension to help encourage binds . i also like extremely light tension and skip each position to its set position which works very quickly on hu101 and hu64 if locks in good condition , many well under a minute this way , its just a knack.
when you could swear you had all positions picked , did you then increase tension alot ? i ask as wouldnt be the first time using light tension that people pick the lock but dont open it as tension is too light , increase tension and lock turns also in a worn or grubby lock this will rotate plug a fraction to find any binding wafers . remember an overlifted lock also binds .
ive only ever needed to pick an ignition when the door lock is broken or is on a different key , these are an old lock now used since 2003 ive done so many as well as did show demo on these around the world for 7 years at many trade shows that i find it no harder than picking an HU66 , if people struggle on them then it is purely down to lack of bench time and practice , nothing else .
at a show in turkey when the hu101 tool was new , a lockie brought an hu101 to the stand and asked me to pick and decode it to prove tool worked as he didnt trust show locks , it took 2 mins to pick and decode his lock , as i read each decode he wrote it down , his friend then had a go , he picked it in 4 mins and was over moon , he got same decode , by time he was done the original guy was back , he had been to the silca stand and had a key cut to the code i read out , he held the key up a little cocky , inserted it and when it worked perfect his mouth dropped and he and about 40 others all bought an hu101 tool on that 1 demo , my point is no matter what make , its a great tool and with the correct technique and tension and a little practiced skill it really is a quick and accurate tool.
enjoy your play time
id advise against plug spinning , we have all done it , but i go to alot of locks that have been broken by over tensioned plug spinners , especially on vag and bmw locks , even plug spinning has an element of skill to get the tension just right , so many just wind them up and smash the lock fittings and paddles that can be weak.
spiking i do alot , use a broken hand pick or feeler gauge to jam this between the plug and lock body to hold the lock open and stop it relocking on the spring when you release tension , allows you to swap tools , useful on hu101 and other snib tools to allow you to use a worn tool to pick and a pristine tool to decode after picking . it was how we used to have to do it using blind touch picks and old decoders .
Feedback Finally:
When I was trying to pick the Connect was using light pressure and picked using sequence 1357 first anti-clockwise and heard the grind as it turned a fraction. Then increased tension slightly and continued to pick. I think maybe only one or 2 positions just out to stop turning lock to closed.
Maybe a bit more tension required to get the bind ?
I’ll need to investigate spiking more as would like to use 1 tool to pick and one to decode as you’ve kindly pointed out I’ll see if there’s any pictures on the web
Thanks again Rapid much appreciated
** Update**
Got door lock yesterday practicing your sequence picked open position about 30 times got it down to under 2 minutes. Cut blank works perfect
LISHI HU101 2-in-1 Auto Pick and Decoder advice:
http://www.obdexpress.co.uk/wholesale/lishi-ford-rover-volvo-hu101-2-in-1-auto-pick-decoder-7.html
Source:http://blog.obdexpress.co.uk/2019/07/02/tips-on-using-lishi-hu101-picking-and-decode/
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